The Gilbert Collection – Buckles with plates with belt fragments

Kane Khanh | Archeaology
March 2, 2024
I’m always on the look out for my river finds in old paintings and here is my medieval pewter buckle plate.
It appears on the waist of an unknown lady painted by Belgium-born painter Rogier van der Weyden around 1460. She is dressed in an elegant low-cut black dress with dark fur at the neck and wrist and a bright red sash. She is serenely beautiful.

Buckles with plates with fragments

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragments

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragmentsBuckle and plate
with leather belt fragment
BUWPWF00

Object: Buckle and plate with leather belt
Culture: Medieval. circa 14th-15th century
Country of Origin: Netherlands
Material: metal, leather
Size: Total length 110mm.
– Buckle width 25mm.
– Belt width 15mm x 1mm.
Weight: 9.17 grams

Notes: Plain undecorated D ring buckle with decorated plate and long leather belt fragment. The belt plate has two sets of horizontal lines set 10mm apart and cross hatching lines beneath the lower pair of lines. The plate end towards the strap has two concave arches at the belt joint. The pin is broken near the buckle. The solo rivet remains intact. There is one pin for a belt mount which is missing and several holes to indicate further mounts were present when in use.

The belt fragment is approzimately 100mm in length and extremely thin. The raw side of the leather appears to be facing out on the front of the belt with the cross hatching, which seems unusual.

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragments

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragmentsBuckle and plate
with gilding and fragment
BUWPWF07

Object

: Buckle and plate
Culture: Medieval. 13th-14th century
Area of Origin: Yorkshire, England
Material: Bronze with gold gilding
Size: 28mm x 20mm
Weight: 3.92 grams

Notes: Trapazoid buckle frame with round knops on each corner. The pin is complete and moves freely. The buckle plate is of one pice construction with the plate folding over to form the back in a triangular shape. One rivet remains. The plate has a singular wavy line around the edge. Traces of gilding remain on both the buckle frame and the buckle plate.

A fragment of belt remains but is yet to be studied further. From a small collection formed in the 1980’s

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragments

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragmentsBuckle and plate
with M letter with belt fragment
BUWPWF01

Object

: Buckle with plate
Culture: Medieval 14th-15th century
Area of Origin: Thames River, Oxford. England
Material: Pewter?
Size: length 62 mm x width 32 mm
Weight: 21.01 grams

Notes: A large openwork lyre-shaped buckle, decorated on one side only. The socketed end has a single rivet and is decorated with a rectangle containing the letter M for Maria. The frame is decorated with a pair of grooves, with cast scrolls alongside. The pin hole goes through to the interior of the frame. The pin is present and moves freely.

Similar to: PAS Find ID: 253186. England 1400-1500.

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragments

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragmentsBuckle and plate
with belt fragment
BUWPWF02

Object: Buckle with plate
Culture: Medieval. 14th century
Country of Origin: England
Material:
Size: 50mm length
Weight: 6.72 grams

Notes: The buckle is cast with a forked spacer and oval buckle with a small triangular point where the pin rests. The pin is present and moves freely. The plate has top and bottom plates and a W shaped edge where it meets the belt but is otherwise undecorated. One rivet remains. There is no other piercing for further rivets on the plate.

A small piece of woven belt or leather strap remains.

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragments

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragmentsBuckle and plate
with belt fragment
BUWPWF03

Object: Buckle with plate
Culture: Medieval, 14th century
Area of Origin: Kent, England
Material:
Size: 35mm length
Weight: 3.29 grams

Notes: The buckle is arch shaped with a small point where the pin rests. The pin is present and moves freely. The plate is constructed with a folded sheet and is undecorated. One rivet remains. There is no other piercing for further rivets on the plate.

A small piece of woven belt or leather strap remains.

Similar to: Egan & Pritchard, MoL Dress Accessories, Item 306.

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragments

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragmentsBuckle and plate
with belt fragment
BUWPWF04

Object: Buckle with plate
Culture: Medieval. 14-15th century
Area of Origin: Sherriff Hutton, Yorkshire, England.
Material: Copper alloy
Size: 24mm length
Weight: 1.76 grams

Notes: Buckle and plate. Pin is almost circular with a small point where the pin rests. Pin is absent. Plate is folded construction. To be cleaned.

Sold as “Superb tiny Post Medieval copper alloy buckle and strapend, missing pin in Antiquity, once silvered, uncleaned condition found in England. L296. L296 from an old English Collection.”

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragments

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragmentsBuckle and plate
with belt fragment
BUWPWF05

Object: Buckle and plate
Culture: Medieval, 14th century
Country of Origin: England
Material:
Size: 55mm total length. Plate width 15mm
Weight: 9.62 grams

Notes: Oval cast buckle with decorative pin rest. Pin is absent. The plate is constructed with the folded sheet method and has 4 tube rivets in situ. The plate is plain and undecorated.

It contains a fragment of belt which appears to be two extremely thin layers, although unclear whether leather or fabric.

Similar to: Item 317, Swan Lane, London, MoL Dress Accessories, Egan and Pritchard.

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragments

The Gilbert Collection - Buckles with plates with belt fragmentsBuckle and plate
with belt fragment
BUWPWF06

Object: Buckle with plate
Culture: Medieval, 14th century
Country of Origin: England
Material:
Size: 35mm total length. Plate width 15mm
Weight: 5.02 grams

Notes: The buckle is stirrup-shaped and is of cast construction. Two small knops are present on the top bar of the buckle which is straight. The pin is bent but complete and moves freely. The plate is undecorated with two piercings which house the pin, and is of folded sheet construction. There are 2 rivets remaining.

A piece of belt, probably leather, remains.